With Gucci’s dark allure still in mind, the Alberta Ferretti line-up looked ready to take it head on; the blouses just as translucent, the dresses just as bejewelled – only this time the jewels were mixed in with woven leather ribbons and feathers fashioned into flowers.
But where the Gucci woman’s femininity was tempered by military shapes and a touch of dandyism, Ferretti’s romance was given a masculine edge via mannish pinstripe cashmere coats and bulky, scoop-necked fisherman sweaters.
Jewel-coloured fur coats in red, emerald, purple and burgundy were belted in shiny alligator, while the house signature silk slips overlaid in pin-tucked and draped matching chiffon were romantic and pretty as ever.
“I wanted to express a new idea of feminine seduction. A seduction that I have imagined more resolute, stronger yet more fashionable and with personality and also determined by the mystery,” Ferretti said in her notes.
Wool and fur was entwined for hardy daywear, while white fur princess coats brought back the princess Ferretti girl and sexy black dresses whose shapes were exaggerated by panels of cashmere and chiffon turned up the voltage.
Long leather gloves – which began as a trend in London – pencil skirts with kick pleats around the them and little cocktail dresses of red or purple meant there was more variety than usual for next season – and then the finale of black draped chiffon dresses built up with ribbons, feathers, beads and shimmering tinsel reminded us this is really a house that it all about dressing up.
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